Eagle has landed

Fiona is safely back in Leeds, UK and Jackie has flown on, and is in North Island:

... am now en route to a Copthorne small hotel at Omapere on the WEst coast, south of Hokianga Harbour. Continue to see fun birds - lots of mynah birds; also Californian crested quail and a pied shag with beautifil white front. Have eaten feijoa jelly for breakfast, and scallops for tea, so not suffering too much. Am now doing laundry ( not available in Russell B7B !) in small town called Kaikohe - fun because not tourist town, full of locals and friendly again.

Have also visted, photographed and used the famous Hundertwasser loos in Kawakaw.

Te Anau & Doubtful Sound

...we dawdled round Queenstown and finally left after lunch to drive to a homestay near Te Anau. Weather alternating between sunshine - sometimes with rain - and showers all the weay. Lots of large farms with sheep - cows - sheep - deer - sheep and, well, sheep. Arrived finally (in rain) at the lovely home of Sharon and Alistair Macdonald who farm sheep (surprise) cattle (herefords) and deer (a red deer and elk cross called a wittipaki (?) Lovely meal of local lamb with crumble to follow and lots of nice chat to go with it.

Next day set off in clear weather for our trip to Doubtful Sound. Drove to Manipouri where we boarded a boat [catamaran] across the lake to join a road over the Wilmot Pass that brought us to the end of D. Sound. Road was built to supply construction of a power station that takes water from the lake and uses the 300m drop to drive the turbines. Impressive stuff!

Routeburn Tramp - Mount Aspiring

Back safely from the track which was terrific in spite of some variable weather. We were driven to the start on a clear sunny day past fields with more sheep in than I have ever seen in my life, most with lambs which feels odd in November! Stopped for tea and - wait for it - warm scones with jam and cream - on the way to the start, impressive or what?

<http://www.doc.govt.nz/explore/002~tracks-and-walks/Great-Walks/Routeburn-Track/index.asp>

Most of the first day was steady climbing through beech woods - theirs are non-deciduous though (no fall colours here) - in worsening weather.

The views when they appeared were great, snowy mountans and deep river valleys, but the climb was on tricky rocky paths so not my best surface. By the time we hit the night-time hut it was raining heavily but clearly they are used to this so had excellent drying rooms and hot water bottles for the bunks.

We were a party of only 6 which was great - the maximum of 24 would have been really crouwded - and as they were training two new guides we got 4 which was even better. It bucketed it down all night and we set off in drizzle and poor visibility which was a pity. We climbed steadily - first in woodland on wet rocks, no fun - then on the hillside on graded paths which was better. As we hit the saddle the weather cleared and we descended in sunshine to our second hut which was great. Again the scenery was terrific - I have taken lots of shots to bore you with....

Day three dawned bright and sunny and we descended steeply at first then on a good path through woodland - following the Route Burn - whose source at Harris lake we had passed the day before. Highlight had to be seeing keas, the playful parrots that live in the mountains here and eat anything in sight including boot laces and windscreen wipers so can be a mixed blessing. But we enjoyed them on the trail and I even had some pictures which I hope will be OK.

Bussed back to our original hotel - off tomorrow to our farmstay from which we will take the cruise on Doubtful Sound on Friday. I have heard great things of this so hope it works out alright.

Queenstown

Terrific drive down to Queenstown - in pouring rain - managed a quick swim in an outdoor pool in a brief moment of no rain. Hotel here luxurious so am off to check out downtown Queenstown - walk by the lake etc. then to the Routeburn briefing session.


J. IS doing all the driving ... we did a mountain pass yesterday which was quite hair-raising

Sunny today so let's hope it lasts for three days yet, weather here is very variable, more than at home, so you never can tell what will happen.

Lake Moeraki

Saw seven penguins today - can you imagine? They are so cute, just like in the movies ..... Also did a rain forest walk which was great, looking at all the native species.

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Yesterday we left our lovely hostess - and drove south in brilliant sunshine towards the Southern Alps. Two-lane roads with single-lane bridges over wide creeks with cold glacier-grey water all the way - and no traffic to speak of.

This is obviously the right season to come, early so you risk poor weather but very few tourists. Scenery wonderful, approaching snow-capped mountains, forests and meadows with sheep cattle and occasionally farmed deer, lovely crystal-clear lakes, just stunning all round.
Stopped at glacier and did helicopter flight - we were crammed in with a Yorkshire family - Felt a bit miffed at this and were puzzled at the route and length of the flight - discovered later we had been upgraded from the 20-minute $170.00 trip to the 40-minute $345.00 one with landing on the snowfield included - so felt a lot less miffed!

Flight terrific, lucky timing too as they had been grounded by the bad weather for four days, I have endless shots of snow to prove it! J. confessed after that she had been v. nervous

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After the glacier walk we grabbed a quick lunch then drove slowly down here to the wilderness lodge on Lake Moeraki - again marvelling at the lack of traffic. Some more mountainous roads now but nothing we don't see in Scotland or indeed parts of the Dales.

This place very pretentious and poncy with staff all trained at the same charm school but large comfy room with excellent facilities. After the usual collapse and shower and change we drifted into the dining room and had an excellent meal - slightly nouvelle but more than enough to eat. Breakfast also very good so we figure we can cope - particularly with free internet and free laundry facilities thrown in.

Glow-worm walk last night was a hoot (literally as we heard an owl too) We walked along the middle of the main road - as I said there's no traffic here - and marvelled at the little beasties lighting up the trees like Christmas, it was wierd. Apparently these are not mating lights but lures to catch prey rather like some spiders - they dangle sticky threads down and wait to grab anything that comes looking for the light source.

We also got to look at the night sky a bit - southern cross and alpha centauri plus some faint galaxies (far far away no doubt .....) and Scorpio setting. We were out too early to catch Orion rising though.

Today we plan a little self-guided stroll to the beach with a picnic lunch to see if we can spot penguins then we have a guided forest walk before supper. Forecast is dry today, it is cloudy but no rain as yet. We leave tomorrow to drive to Queenstown so I'll try to get on the internet from there. We HAVE to come here, it's lovely and the natives are very friendly - favourite Kiwi phrase is "no worries" - and the scenery and wild flrowers and trees are wonderful.

Greymouth

I took the tram to the museum and enjoyed the history of NZ from the arirval of the Maori from Polynesia - bringing dogs and rats with them and wiping out the rhea - to the whalers and the mass immigration of "the indegant(SP? indigent: needy) working classes"

Also they had removed a scientific station from the Antarctic and re-erected it - except for one part of one hut which was too contaminated swith guano to move - in the museum. This was very exocative I have to say.

Walked back and ate well at the hotel, did laundry and early to bed as we had an early start today.

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Up early to catch a shuttle to the train for the trip tp Greymouth. Rained all night and all day to date (15.30) which is unfortunate. However train trip spectacular even in these conditions so well worth it:

http://www.tranzscenic.co.nz/services/alpine.aspx

Now in Greymouth in bucketing rain - have collected car and are doing the odd bit of stuff like this before drive to Hokitika for two nights. Will write again when I can - no idea what will be around in Hokitika but fingers crossed.

Christchurch

Here I am in the centre of Christchurch, near the cathedral which is obvioulsy where everyone meets their mates.

Back to Singapore. We tok a cab to the Raffles Hotel and were handed out by an Indian guy dressed to the nines in Empire garb. The building - which is massive - is impressive with lots of open arcades and airy courtyards as well as the various cafes and bars. We could not do "Tiffin" as they were fully booked - just as well as the price was a bit steep - but we found a place where we had tea and a cake in another part of the complex. The famous Long Bar was I admit a disappointment - packed to the rafters and a mite dark and glomy for my taste. Jacqui snapped me in the lobby just before an officious flunkey stopped someone else taking a shot so that was lucky.

Cock-up meant we arrived late at the airport so had very poor seats at the back with no aisle seat and amongst a party of Finns whose chatter was somewaht daunting at times. Jammed against the window I spent an uncomfortable flight but managed to watch The Dish plus a strange Johnny Depp movie called Don Juan something - I'll fill you in about this later....

Arrived hot and tired in NZ - warm sunny day - drove into Christchurch along very English lookkng suburban roads with lots of bungalows. Flew in over the Fox Glacier (I think) which was impressive - high barren snow topped mountains all very Tolkeinesque. Area near Christchurch very flat with lots of farmland and some vineyards. Patchwork of fields often with line of trees to provide shelter from the wind making them resemble a child's drawing of fields - if you follow me. Hotel seems fine - huge room and friendly staff - will try the pool later but the food looks pricey so we may venture out for supper.

Looking forward to the train trip Tuesday and collecting the car which will make life much easier all round.

Must go explore the town and look for eateries for later ...

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Christchurch like a provincial English town with familiar architecture and lots of English influences (like a cathedral designed by Gilbert Scott) Have enjoyed strolling round the town seeing the sights - off tommorrow on the train to Greymouth (wizard) and then will collect the car and start out touring.

Singapore

Here we are in Singapore and using my mail - which is a pleasing surprise.

Start at the start - taxi boasted a satnav system which kept giving directions etc and would have driven me round the bend after a mile or so. He ignored it when he knew better and we arrived before 7.30. Flight was BORING in the extreme - watched most of On the Waterfront and All the Kings' Men to pass some of the time - alos read most of the rabbi book (thanks) As we chased the night it was dark by 1500 and dawn came up like thunder at 2300 - quite spooky really. Free transport to hotel worked like a charm - hotel needing refurbishment but OK. Nice open air pool with lots of muscular young men in it - turns out there are several rugby teams here for a friendly 7-a-side tournament staying in our hotel so they were quite a floor show! After we had showered and changed Jacqui retired for a snooze and I strolled round the city - down to the river (where I enjoyed a glass of Strongbow) then on through Chinatown which was v. interesting with lots of little shops and cafes to peer at not to mention temples etc. Hot for walking though!

We ventured out about 1800 to an eatery I had spotted on my travels - a recommended Singapore thing with central area of tables and lots of individual stalls cooking the food fresh for you - delicious and inexpensive. Took a rickshaw ride back - great fun (I have picture to prove this) and retired early-ish as I had not slept at all the previous night and J. had only managed a couple of hours.

Saturday rose early-ish and nipped next door for a quick breakfast snack before boarding the coach for a trip to the Jurong Bird Park. Two huge aviaries and a free monorail ride round the park, bought my first tee-shirt here.....

Back in time for an excellent lunch near the hotel - next step a shower (available even though we have checked out of the room) then we plan to stroll two blocks to the Raffles Hotel for tea. Airport transport due at the hotel at 1800 - flight at 2105 - a mere 8 hours or so but not much fun in steerage I have to say.

Hope to sign on again from Christchurch

Thu 09/11/2006 08:22

we are about to go ona glow worm walk, possibly with views of the night sky.


we went on the Fox glacier by helicopter and landed on the snowfield at 6, 000 ft.

New Zealand Diary 2006

Here I am in Leeds waiting to read your accounts ...

Adrian
xxx